Alaska adventures from Juneau offer a unique journey through wilderness landscapes, enormous glaciers and remote fjords. With its snow-covered mountains and extraordinary wildlife, Alaska is very possibly the most beautiful state in the United States.
Enormous snow-covered mountain ranges follow one after another. Human presence is practically nonexistent. As we descend, I begin to spot a few isolated wooden cabins along the shores of the channel that shap this part of the Gulf of Alaska.
Alaska Adventures from Juneau: The Gateway Port
The city of Juneau is the capital of the U.S. state of Alaska and the only state capital in the United States that has no road access; it can only be reached by plane or boat. From my hotel window I enjoy views of the harbor. Two enormous cruise ships are docked. The coming and going of cruise liners, fishing boats, and seaplanes is constant.
Downtown Juneau lies between Mount Juneau, Mount Roberts, and the Gastineau Channel. It is a labyrinth of narrow streets, a mix of modern buildings and picturesque wooden houses no more than two stories high. At first glance, it feels as though more people are sleeping aboard these gigantic cruise ships than the number of local residents living in this peculiar town.
Discovering Downtown Juneau
A curious bus disguised as a tram tours the most interesting sights. South Franklin Street and Front Street, once famous for hosting bars and brothels for miners, are now art galleries selling Native handicrafts at prohibitive prices, souvenir shops where you can buy an original T-shirt, and the occasional saloon decorated in old-time style.
I recommend stepping into the Red Dog Saloon, even if only for a drink.Its swinging double doors evoke the Wild West. Inside, everything is wood. Rifles share space with mounted bears, moose, and deer heads hanging on the walls.Country music entertains the crowd as they enjoy ice-cold bottles of Alaska beer, the state’s most famous brew. Pizzas, hamburgers, an combination plates satisfy hungry visitors.
Don’t travel to Alaska expecting Michelin-starred restaurants or exclusive designer boutiques. Juneau is a city of transition, a bridge between man and vas nature. Nor should you expect to relive the 1990s TV series Northern Exposure Cicely was fictional.
That said, walking down the street you might encounter characters just as colorful: gothic girls in striking black dresses and piercings, cowboys, Inuit locals businessmen in suits and ties, and even the occasional tourist in a miniskirt daring to challenge the weather.
Mendenhall Glacier and Mount Roberts
Among the most memorable Alaska adventures from Juneau is a visit to the Mendenhall Glacier, located just 20 kilometres from the city.
Just 20 km from the city lies one of Juneau’s most iconi landmarks, the Mendenhall Glacier. Located within the Tongass National Forest, the largest national forest in the United States, visitors can watch icebergs calve from its frozen face, hike nearby trails, or kayak on the lake.
The glacier is melting at an alarming rate, revealing ancient forests that may have been buried beneath the ice for more than 2,300 years.
For the scientific community, this thaw is far from positive, as it may contribute to global warming and flooding in coastal cities.Some local residents, however, see it differently. For them, glacial retreat means more green space and better habitat for wildlife and perhaps, someday, the possibility of connecting the city by road to other populated areas of Alaska.
Mount Roberts Tramway
The Goldbelt Mount Roberts Tramway is undoubtedly one of the best experiences the city offers. For $33, you can ride up and down as many times as you like. It departs from downtown and climbs to 1,750 meters in elevation. On the way up, stand at the back the glass panels offe unbeatable views. At the top, well-marked trails win through the mountains. Around 3,000 bald eagles live in the area. If you’re lucky, you may even spot one from the tram
It’s also common to encounter porcupines, marmots, and possibly black bears. If you do, the recommendations are posted everywhere: make noise, sing or talk loudly while walking slowly, and never run. Apparently, bear encounters are not uncommon. I was told that a few years ago grocery store had to replace its automatic door after a large black bear calmly walked in to stock up on frozen seafood. Freshness, it seems, didn’t matter!
Alaska Adventures from Juneau Aboard the Safari Endeavour
Unlike the massive cruise ships that resemble floating cities, the Safari Endeavour offers adventure cruises aboard small vessels accommodating no more than 86 passengers. Here, friendliness, courtesy, and almost personalized service take priority.
Our first stop is the Sawyer Glacier. Gradually, icebergs that have broken off the glacier begin appearing in the water. As we approach, the chunks of ice grow larger, sometimes occupied by seals resting, nursing their pups, or staring at us with wary curiosity.
A dense fog, so thick it seems you could cut it with a knife accompanies us, intensifying the chill, though it’s not unbearable. A tip: dress in layers like an onion. Make sure your base layer is polyester or polypropylene, not cotton. A Gore-Tex waterproof and windbreaker will complete the outfit and keep you warm and dry.
Alaska Adventures from Juneau: Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm
We sail into the narrow fjords of Tracy Arm and Endicott Arm. Each stretches more than 48 km long, with a fifth of their surface covered in ice. Binoculars and cameras with telephoto lenses dominate the ship’s deck as passengers try to capture the essence of some of Alaska’s largest icebergs. Here, it’s easy to feel tiny in the face of such immensity.
Using inflatable boats, we approach within just meters of the glacier’s tongue. The thunderous crash of ice calving into the water is deafening. The impact is so powerful it creates waves that rock our boat. According to the captain, this fjord is home to brown and black bears, deer, wolves, and countless bird species, though today, only the seals seem to have come out to greet us.
Wildlife in Frederick Sound
We continue toward Frederick Sound, a perfect place to observe humpback whales leaping fearlessly near our vessel. Farther along stands the Five Fingers Lighthouse on a small rocky islet. Nearby, hundreds of sea lions bask freely on the rocks.
Baranof Bay is a stunning setting, ideal for kayaking, hiking, and exploring ancient forests in search of black bears.
The Final Journey to Glacier Bay
And so we arrive at Glacier Bay,land reborn. Just 250 years ago,this area was entirely covered in ice. Today, it is a natural laboratory, a United Nations Biosphere Reserve, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It can only be reached by seaplane or boat.
Park rangers guide us along marked trails. The vegetation is lush, and the trees so tall I can barely see their tops. To understand what this place once looked like, nothing compares to walking on a glacier, something we attempt at Reid Glacier. It’s no easy task; without ice axes and crampons, it’s far too easy to slip and fall.
On our final day of exploration, we reach Icy Strait, the perfect place to bid farewell to the humpback whales.
