Sabato De Sarno’s sudden departure as Gucci’s Creative Director comes just two years after his appointment, leaving the fashion house in search of a new leader.
The company announced the news last week, and the exit is immediate. De Sarno’s designs won’t be displayed on the runway during Milan Fashion Week, which takes place at the end of the month. The design office will present the new collection.
What is behind this abrupt change?
De Sarno was brought into the luxury brand as a replacement for Alessandro Michele, known for his bold, maximalism aesthetic, which drove huge sales to Gucci before the pandemic.
Despite being appointed to restore the classic, more restrained feel of the House’s aesthetic – amid the stagnation in luxury demand of the post-pandemic market – the new creative director failed to generate the anticipated excitement, partly because his style didn’t align with the exotic image that had become a staple of the brand in recent years. Additionally, the press coverage of his collections has been largely negative.
As a result, Gucci’s sales have been underwhelming, and as the Kering CEO already admitted, the brand is falling behind its peers.
The Future of Gucci
This setback in Gucci’s sales and popularity is significant, given the brand’s legacy of success. However, while changes are likely to follow, the end of De Sarno’s connection with the company does not necessarily mean Gucci’s future is at risk.
It remains uncertain who will succeed him as creative director, but some names have been appointed such as Hedi Slimane, who left Celine last October; Kim Jones, known for his work at Dior; or Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s women’s designer, who is expected to leave the brand this spring.
