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The exclusivity of tailoring

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NP Magazine 44 - Digital and paper

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The exclusivity of tailoring Protocolo

High-end bridal attire has elevated the selection of groom’s suits to a superior level, offering exceptional quality, exclusive design, and meticulous attention to detail.

The evolution and excellence in tailoring have reached unparalleled heights of quality and style. These suits are not just garments; they are authentic works of art that reflect the elegance and personality of the man wearing them on such a significant day.

The history behind high-end suits is a fascinating part of men’s fashion, with origins that are always interesting to revisit. One of the first names to leave a mark on men’s fashion was Beau Brummell, an iconic figure of the 18th century in England, often considered the world’s first “influencer.” His style truly influenced the society of his time and continues to serve as a reference for the suits we see today.

How it all began

The first significant evolution in men’s tailoring came in the 1840s with the introduction of long coats. These black coats, similar to the current ones, extended below the knee and had a back opening. This type of coat became important both for daily use and for the formality of events. In Scotland, during the 1850s, heavier salon suits ideal for more informal outdoor occasions and shorter in length began to be produced.

After World War I, men’s attire was heavily influenced by military styles. Trousers began to have high waists, and jackets were designed to broaden the shoulders and lengthen the legs.

The 1920s, known as the Jazz Age, influenced men’s fashion with the introduction of more flamboyant materials, bright colors, and bold patterns. This era saw the emergence of pocket squares and shirts with collar pins, following the style of Jay Gatsby. Initially, trousers had a cut that reached the socks, but by the end of the decade, more avant-garde suits featured side slits in the trousers.

With lighter, more refined, and fluid fabrics in the 1930s, this look was associated with a heroic male image from the cinema. This period was considered the golden age of classic men’s fashion due to the elegance and distinction of its suits.

The creation of minimalist suits occurred during World War II. Waistcoats were set aside, and the gray flannel suit became the daily option.

The exclusivity of tailoring Protocolo
The exclusivity of tailoring Protocolo

After the 1950s

In the 1950s, the “Ivy League” style emerged, characterized by sack-shaped jackets with a central vent and pleatless trousers. By the end of the decade, the “Mod” style, consisting of body-hugging suits, narrow lapels, and ties, and straight-cut, pleatless trousers, became very popular.

The 1980s saw a revolution in fashion with Giorgio Armani’s “power suit” concept. These suits, considered a symbol of power, featured wide-shouldered jackets and broad lapels, creating a well-defined silhouette.

In the early 2000s, tighter suits with shorter trousers and jackets with narrower lapels began to be produced. Black became the most popular color, offering a more minimalist look for events.

As the years go by, new trends emerge. However, most suits have remained tight, allowing for work on details such as the height of the jacket button and the lapel opening. Consequently, some designers reintroduced shorter jackets, which reached waist height to give a more modern and relaxed look.

How it is nowadays

When discussing men’s tailoring over the years, it is also vital to mention one of the most acclaimed streets in the world of suits, where the elegant and classic style of today was born: Savile Row in Mayfair, London. This epicenter of luxury fashion and high-end tailoring was where Henry Poole, the first established tailor, paved the way for high-end fashion that has endured for generations. Influential designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano also left their mark on Savile Row, blending traditional tailoring with contemporary innovation.

To take men’s fashion to an unparalleled level, dressing renowned names like Mick Jagger, Eric Clapton, Elton John, and The Beatles, renowned British tailor Edward Sexton focused on artisanal quality and exclusive design, making Savile Row a symbol of high-end men’s fashion.

Today, groom’s fashion is explored by various brands offering ceremonial suits for all tastes and styles, in different patterns and colors, always marked by the quality of the fabrics, the cut, and the craftsmanship.

The exclusivity of tailoring Protocolo
The exclusivity of tailoring Protocolo

Suits by the Spanish brand Protocolo

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