Text and Photography: Sergi Reboredo
Sailing between glaciers and icebergs through Chilean Patagonia, on a mythical journey that explores glaciers threatened by climate change.
Puerto Natales, a four-hour flight from Santiago, Chile’s capital, is one of the southernmost points in the world. Hotel Remota stands out in its surroundings, offering incredible views of Última Esperanza Bay and the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers.
Designed by Germán del Sol, the hotel has large open spaces with natural light, providing a feeling of being outdoors. Inspired by Patagonian ranches, the interior is made of thermally insulated wood. The three U-shaped pavilions feature pre-Hispanic décor, wool rugs, English crockery and Peruvian cotton sheets. The hotel also offers a wide range of activities, including, for example, horseback riding, visits to the Milodon Cave or hiking in Torres del Paine National Park.
Welcome aboard
Just one kilometer north of Hotel Remota is Puerto Kochifas, the place where Skorpios III docks, the ship on which we will visit spectacular glaciers in a virtually unexplored landscape. It’s not just any ship, as its entire structure is reinforced so that it can sail on ice. Despite its 5 decks and spacious lounges, its capacity is only 90 passengers, so the service is meticulous and personalized. Without the queues and hustle and bustle of the overcrowded cruise ships of the big shipping companies.
Everything here is a family affair, and “Mimi” Coñuecar, widow of Captain Constantino Kochifas, the founder of the Skorpios company, is in charge. Luis Kochifas, her son, is the captain of the Skorpios III and proudly explains how, a week after his father’s death, Mimi was already back on board. “It’s her philosophy of life. She’s going to die on board the ship, just like my father,” explains Luis.
Southern Ice Fields
We will spend 4 days and 3 nights navigating archipelagos, canals, islands, forests and a host of incredible experiences in the most inhospitable and unknown of Patagonia.
Argentina has managed to make the most of its unique natural attractions, such as the Perito Moreno, even though the 500,000 annual visitors are already threatening to massify this precious place. In fact, we’re talking about one of the least studied areas on the planet.
We leave Puerto Natales behind
The moorings are released, and the boat begins to move. Puerto Natales and its brightly colored houses are left behind, the cell phone signal is also lost until it disappears. The first thing we come across are the Kirke Straits, and from the deck we can see the lush vegetation of the Patagonian fjords. It’s getting dark and a succulent three-course dinner is served in the main saloon. The travelers begin to get to know each other.
The next day, we wake up next to the Amalia Glacier, the largest on our itinerary, with a wall of ice three kilometers long and more than 90 meters high and where a beach-like path is formed by the retreat of the ice, allowing travelers to get up close and see the wall of this glacier. Nearby, we spotted a family of huemul deer, an endangered species native to the Andes. After returning to the mother ship in an inflatable boat, we are accompanied by southern dolphins.
Hearing the deafening noise and seeing part of the head of the glacier collapse is an impressive spectacle, although everyone knows what it means: melting, retreating and heading towards extinction.
One of the highlights of the trip is changing boats, in a small bay, for the icebreaker Constantine. The land of rugged mountain peaks contrasts with the white snow, while blue icebergs float in the dark waters of the sea.
Finishing on a high note
The next morning, near the Mountain Fjord, the Skorpios III performs a skillful maneuver to climb huge rocks at the foot of the Alsina glacier. We then sail through a dead-end channel until we come across a gigantic wall of ice that drops abruptly into the sea. We return to the boat and head towards the Bernal Glacier.
From here, we start a pleasant 30-minute walk along a path that crosses native forests and turquoise lagoons. To finish on a high note, the boat docks near Angostura White where we will observe the wildlife: sea lions, cormorants and a pair of Andean condors watch us closely. Their survival will depend to a large extent on what we humans do in the coming years. And the prospects are not good.
The last dinner is spectacular. A buffet where nothing is missing: salmon, fresh seafood, lamb and turkey, among other delicious delicacies. Not forgetting the excellent Chilean wine, which encourages diners to dance salsa and leave with a good taste in their mouths. Thus ends a spectacular trip to the southern ice kingdom.
